Introduction Of Tevo Tornado Creality CR-10S

A high-performance 3D printer with several cutting-edge capabilities and a sizable build capacity is the Tevo Tornado Creality. This printer is ideal for designers, engineers, and enthusiasts that need accurate and dependable 3D printing because of its durable and elegant design. The CR-10S is an enhanced model of the well-liked Tevo Tornado Creality CR-10S, with a heated build plate and dual-z lead screw for better print quality and stability.

Detailed Specifications

The Tornado Creality CR-10S boasts the following key features

• Build volume: 300 x 300 x 400 mm
• Print speed: up to 150 mm/s
• Layer resolution: 0.1-0.4 mm
• Printable materials: PLA, ABS, TPU, and other materials
• Heated build plate: yes, up to 110°C
• Dual-z lead screw: yes
• Filament diameter: 1.75 mm
• Extruder type: single direct drive
• Connectivity: SD card and USB
• Frame: aluminum

Description

A cost-effective and dependable 3D printer, the Tevo Tornado Creality produces prints of excellent quality. Its dual-z lead screw guarantees stability and accuracy, and its enormous build volume and heated build plate make it perfect for printing complicated and massive things. The CR-10S has an easy-to-use interface and works with PLA, ABS, and TPU filaments, among other filament types. The CR-10S is ideal for individuals who need a dependable and long-lasting 3D printer because of its strong aluminum chassis and premium components.

Setup Guide

Setting up the Tevo Tornado Creality CR-10S is a straightforward process

1. After unpacking the printer, put the frame together following the directions in the user manual.
2. Feed the filament into the hot end of the extruder to load it.
3. Once the nozzle at the proper distance from the plate, level the build plate by tightening the screws under each corner.
4. Set the nozzle and build plate temperature to the preferred level for the filament you intend to use.
5. To load a 3D model and begin printing, use the control panel or a USB cord.

Assembly

1. Remove the parts from the box and remove any tape and padding from the parts. Inspect the parts to make sure they were not damaged in shipment.
2. Install the gantry frame (A) to the base frame (B).
   • On the gantry frame, make sure the nozzle assembly is to the front. On the base frame, make sure the steppeer motor is on the back.

   • Use the M5x25 screws (4 pcs) and lock washers (4 pcs). Raise the base frame above the table. Install the screws through the base frame into the threaded holes in the gantry frame (as shown in picture below). Tighten with M5 hex key (Allen) wrench.

     

3. Install the two T-shaped frame reinforcement plates. The plate with the limit switch goes on the Z stepper motor side.
   • Loosen the T-nuts by hand and turn them so they will fit inside the grooves on the frames. Keep the nuts loose so that when you tighten the bolts, the nuts will rotate 90 degress and grab onto the inside of the groove.

   • Tighten all eight bolts using the M5 hex key (Allen) wrench.

     

4. Connect all electrical cables.
   • Put the control box on the lead screw side of the printer with the screen facing forward.
   • Connect the heater cables to the control box. The cable for the build pates has four pins. The cable for the nozzle heater has eight pins. Rotate the connector until the pins slide easily into the socket. DO NOT force them. After the pins are fully inserted, hand-tighten the knurled nuts so they don’t become unplugged.
   • Connect the stepper motor and limit switch cables. The Y cables go to the stepper motor and limit switch at the back of the base frame. The Z cables go to the stepper motor and limit switch on the lead screw side of the base frame. The X and E (extruder) cables go to the gantry frame. The X cables go to the stepper motor and limit switch that runs the belt and the E cables go to the stepper motor that drives the extruder.
   • Connect the power cord to the back of the control box and to a standard 220v/110v electrical outlet.

   • Turn the power on using the switch on the back of the control box.

     

5. Make sure the PTFE tube is all the way down in the hotend, it may come loose during transportation. Push it down all the way into the hotend. Gaps between PTFE tube and nozzle will cause clogging.

Fine-Tuning

1. Adjust the tension of the build plate wheels on the Y-axis on the base frame.
   • Check the tension of the build plate wheels. Try to turn the wheels under the build plate without forcing it. If the wheel turns freely or without much effort, then it is too loose.
   • To tighten the wheels, rotate the eccentric nut that connect to the wheel. Use the open-end wrench to rotate the nuts slightly until the wheels is snug against the Y-axis frame.

   • The build plate assembly and the belt should move forward and backward without much effort, and there should have no side-to-side wiggle or play.

     

2. Adjust the tension of the gantry wheels on the right pillar of the gantry frame
   • Check the tension of the gantry plate wheels. Try to turn the wheels behind the plate without forcing it. If the wheel turns freely or without much effort, it is too loose.

   • To tighten the wheels, rotate the eccentric nut that connect to the wheel. Use the open-end wrench to rotate the nut slightly until the wheel is snug against the Z-axis.

     

3. Adjust the tension of the X-carriage wheels on the X-axis on the gantry frame.
   • Check the tension of the X-carriage wheels. Try to turn the wheels under the build plate without forcing it. If the wheel turns freely or without much effort, then it is too loose.
   • To tighten the wheels, rotate the eccentric nut that connect to the wheel. Use the open-end wrench to rotate the nuts slightly until the wheels is snug against the X-axis frame.

   • The hotend assembly and the belt should move left and right without much effort, and there should have no front-and-back wiggle or play.

     

4. Check the tension of the belt driving the Y-axis (under the build plate). The belt should be taut, with no slack or slop.
   • If the belt is loose:
     • Loosen the four bolts at the front of the base frame holding the belt pulley.

     • Pull the pulley to tighten the belt. Holding the belt taut, tighten the four bolts.

       

5. Check the tension of the belt driving the X-carriage. The belt should be taut, with no slack or slop.
   • the belt is loose:
     • Loosen the two bolts at the right side of the gantry holding the belt pulley.

     • Pull the pulley to tighten the belt. Holding the belt taut, tighten the two bolts.

       

6. Adjust the tension on the Titan Extruder with the screw shown in the picture below if the  filament doesn't come out smoothly during print.

Leveling the Build Plate

To build good parts, the build plate needs to be level, and the nozzle needs to be about 0.1mm from the build plate in all locations. This is about the thickness of a single piece of A4 paper. You want to adjust the height of the build plate so thate you can barely slide the paper between the nozzle and the build plate with only a little resistance.

1. Select Prepare -> Preheat PLA. This will heat up the bed and the nozzle to actual printing conditions, making the leveling more accurate.
2. Select Prepare -> Auto home. This will move the nozzle to the home position at the front left corner of the build plate.
3. Select Prepare -> Disable steppers. This will allow you to move the X-carriage and build plate by hand.
4. Tips: The Z-axis stepper motor is also disabled, and you don’t want it to move at all. So you should handle the printer gently during the leveling process. Keep it flat and move the X-    carriage carefully.
5. Wait for the print bed and nozzle temperature to reach the target temperature. The info screen displays this information below the nozzle and bed icons.
6. Slide a piece of paper between the nozzle and the build plate.
7. Adust each of the four thumbscrews under the bed until the piece of paper slides, with just a bit of drag, in all locations on the build plate.
8. You may need to make fine adjustments to the bed level when you start printing. The first layer of the print will show whether the distance between the nozzle and the build plate is correct. You want it to be pushed into the build surface slightly to maximize surface area contact while still allowing good extrusion flow.
   • You can try to carefully adjust the thumbscrews during the first layer of the print while the plate is moving until the distance between the nozzle and the build plate is producing smooth extruded lines.
   • After you have fine-tuned the bed level during the first layer, you may want to stop the print, clear the build plate, and restart the print.

Preparaing Slicing Software

This printer works with most slicing/printing software like Simplify3D, Cura, Repetier-Host, etc. But we will go in details for Repetier-Host software and tell you how to set it up so that you can make your first print. First we recommend you to download the software from the official website: https://www.repetier.com
 

After installation is done and you start the software, you should get the following screen:

Now we have to set up our printer in the settings so that Repetier-Host can connect to it and will know what size of build area our printer use. Open the Printer Settings window (click Config -> Printer Settings).  First set Port to whatever port your mainboard uses (when you have connected your printer to PC it should show up in here). Set Baud Rate to 250000 and DO NOT touch any other settings in this tab (see picture in next page.)

Click on Printer Shape tab, change the following values:

1. X Max - 320
2. Y Max - 320

• Print Area Width - 300 
• Print Area Depth - 300 
• Print Area Height - 400

Go to Printer tab, change the value according to the picture on the left.

Go to Slicer tab, select Slic3r as slicer and click on Configuration.

On Slic3r window, go to File -> Load Config. (Loaded setting is for general PLA filament printing). Select and load Tornado.ini from SD card.  Rename print setting, filament, printer to Tornado and save.

How to Slice 3D Object for SD Print

Click on Load, browse to location of the file, then choose Open.

After the file is open up in 3D view, click on Slicer tab to go into slicing page.

Select the correct Print Setting, Printer Settings, and Extruder type, then click on Slice with Slic3r.

After slicing, click on Save for SD Print to save the G-code file to the SD card with file name of your choice. Then you can insert the card to your printer and choose Print from SD to start printing.

How to Flash Firmware

To install firmware on your printer, you'll need to download the following:

1. Arduino IDE (http://www.arduino.cc)
2. Firmware Source Code (You can get it from many ways, e.g. our Facebook Page Files section, our Customer Service, or from Marlin and Repetier directly.)

In this chapter, we're going to use Marlin for demonstration.

Configuration

• Firmware downloaded from our Facebook page or from our customer service are pre-configured, you can use it without any modification.
• To configure, you'll need to edit two files: configuration.h and configuration_adv.h. You can visit their website for explanations of the configuration file format and a synopsis of most of the options in these files.

Verify / Compile

To start the process, do the following steps:

1. Double-click Marlin.ino file to open it in Arduino IDE.
2. Select Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560 from Tools -> Boards menu.
3. Select the serial (USB) port that your board is connected to in Tools -> Serial Port menu.
4. Click the Verify/Compile button at the top of the window to make sure there are no configuration errors. (Or you can click on Upload button next to Verify/Compile if you're using Marlin from our Facebook page or our customer service).
5. Once all errors are fixed, proceed with the upload by clicking Upload button. A blue or green LED on the board will flash rapidly during this process.

Flash Your Board

To flash your board, do the following steps:

1. Ensure Marlin.ino is open in the Arduino IDE.
2. Select Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560 from Tools -> Boards menu.
3. Select the serial (USB) port that your board is connected to in Tools -> Serial Port menu.
4. Click on Upload button to begin flashing your controller board. A blue or green LED on the board will flash rapidly during this process.

That's it! Now you've flashed firmware to your board, enjoy printing!

Troubleshooting

Here are some common issues and solutions when using the Tevo Tornado Creality CR-10S:

• Print quality issues: Check that the build plate is level and that the filament is loaded correctly. Adjust the print settings as necessary.
• Nozzle clogging: Clean the nozzle regularly and use high-quality filament to prevent clogging.
• Connectivity issues: Make sure that the printer is connected to a power source and that the USB cable is properly connected.
• Software issues: Make sure that you are using the latest version of the printer's software and that your computer meets the minimum system requirements.

Pros & Cons Of Tornado Creality CR-10S

Pros

• High build volume
• Dual-Z lead screw and heated construction plate
• Suitable with a variety of filament kinds
• Interface that is easy to use
• Robust aluminum frame
• Reasonable cost

 Cons

• It can take a while to assemble.
• There have been several reported software problems.
• Insufficient client assistance

Customer Reviews

The Tevo Tornado Creality's high build volume, accurate prints, and user-friendly interface have won praise from customers. Some have, however, criticized it for having little customer assistance and requiring a long time to assemble. In general, consumers have expressed satisfaction with the Tevo Tornado Creality CR-10S's quality and affordability, which has made it a well-liked option for anyone seeking a premium 3D printer at a reasonable cost.