Introduction

The 123filter iSpringFilter Osmosis Water Filtration system is a high-performance water purification solution designed to provide clean and safe drinking water. Utilizing advanced reverse osmosis technology, it effectively removes contaminants, including heavy metals, chlorine, and bacteria, ensuring that your water is free from harmful substances. The system features multiple filtration stages for comprehensive purification and is easy to install. Priced at approximately $200, it offers an affordable option for families seeking reliable water quality at home.

123filter iSpringFilter Osmosis Water Filtration Specifications

• Reverse Osmosis Technology: Removes up to 99% of contaminants.
• Flow Rate: Produces up to 75 gallons per day.
• Filter Stages: Includes 5 stages of filtration for comprehensive purification.
• Installation Type: Under-sink installation with all necessary fittings included.
• Dimensions: 16.5 x 7.5 x 13 inches (H x W x D).

Description

The 123filter iSpringFilter Osmosis Water Filtration system is built with durability and efficiency in mind. The 5-stage filtration process ensures that water passes through multiple layers of purification, including sediment, carbon, and reverse osmosis membranes. This thorough process guarantees that the water is free from a wide range of impurities, resulting in clean and taste-neutral drinking water.

The system also includes an automatic shut-off valve and a leak alarm to prevent waste and ensure continuous operation. The filters are designed to be easily replaceable, reducing maintenance costs over time.

System Installation

Prior to Installation

Inspect the package 
Open the box and remove all of the components. Inspect them to ensure nothing was damaged during shipping. If any part is cracked or broken, please immediately contact iSpring Customer Support for a replacement. Identify and get familiar with the components. 
Recommended tools list

• Variable speed drill with two bits: ¼” (for drilling a hole on PVC drain pipe), ½” hollow diamond (for drilling a hole on the countertop for drinking faucet)
• 5/8”, 9/16” open-end wrench, or adjustable wrench, pliers
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Scissors or utility knife

Operating conditions 

• Minimum water pressure: 45 PSI, otherwise a booster pump is necessary to raise the incoming water pressure and improve the RO efficiency.
• Maximum water pressure: 70 PSI, otherwise a pressure regulator (part no. APR70) is required to lower the PSI to the maximum level.
• Operating water temperature range: 40 – 100 °F (4 - 37 °C) (This RO system is NOT designed for HOT water). The RO process will be slightly faster the warmer the source water is and vice versa.
• Maximum TDS: 750 ppm
• Install this RO system in a location where it is safe from hot/cold weather and direct sunlight. Avoid hitting, dropping, or dragging the system as this can cause cracks and leaks.

Component Identification

Installation Tips

How to use the Quick-Connect fittings 

To connect: 

1. See Figure 1. Check and cut the tubing end squarely and cleanly with utility knife or scissors.
2. Make a ⅝” mark at the end of the tube so you will be able to confirm when the tube is inserted fully into the fitting.
3. Remove the blue lock clip from the fitting with your nail. If the lock sleeve pops out of the fitting when doing this, simply pop it back in.
4. Insert the tube into the fitting until you reach the ⅝” mark on the tube. You will feel resistance when the tube reaches the small rubber O ring inside the fitting. You will need to wiggle the tube and apply additional pressure to get it passed this O ring and create the seal. If the tube is not ⅝” into the fitting and past the O ring, no seal will be created and leaking will occur.
5. Once the tube is fully inserted into the fitting, pop the blue lock clip back on the fitting. This will lock the tube in place and prevent it from moving.

To disconnect: 

1. See Figures 2 and 3. Remove the blue lock clip from the fitting.
2. With the blue lock clip removed, use your thumb and index finger to hold down the lock sleeve. This will release the metal teeth holding the tube in place. While holding the lock sleeve down with that hand, use your other hand to remove the tube from the fitting.

How to drill a ½” hole in your sink or counter-top 

1. It’s highly recommended to watch the YouTube video “How To Drill Faucet Holes” to get a better understanding of the process. Depending on what kind of countertop you have, you may want to hire an experienced professional to ensure the hole is drilled correctly.
2. Choose a half inch Diamond Core Bit for granite, and a titanium drill bit for steel. Do NOT use a hammer drill on nature stone, glass, and ceramic.
3. An indent should be made with a punch on steel before drilling to help guide the bit.
4. Use caution when drilling on a Porcelain sink, as it could be easily chipped. Set drill speed on slow. Press the bit downward firmly until breaking through the slippery surface. Some people found it is easier to secure the bit by drilling through a piece of wood that is firmly pressed on the surface.
5. Use coolant to disperse heat. Choose water for granite, and oil for steel. Use the Water Suction Cup to hold coolant inside and prevent the drill bit from slipping.
6. Starting at slowest speed, hold the drill firmly and vertically and prevent the drill bit from slipping on the counter.
7. Once breaking through the smooth surface, swirl the drill a little to apply pressure in a circle evenly.
8. Be patient and deliberate. It can take 20 – 40 minutes to drill through one inch.

• A. Source water from Feed Water Adapter 
• B. Source water to 1st stage water inlet
• C. Waste water from Flow Restrictor
• D. Wastewater to Drain Saddle/drain pipe
• E. RO water from stage 5 “T” fitting 
• F. RO water to Storage Tank
• F. When the drinking faucet is opened, RO water from the tank passes through E and G → H. RO water to the drinking faucet

Installation Steps 

Before you begin the installation, it is highly recommended that you watch the video “iSpring Reverse Osmosis Installation” on YouTube. 
Note: If you plan on mounting/hanging the system, it is highly recommended to include supports under each of the bottom three housings. Supports under the housings will take the water weight off the housing threads, and ensure the thread strength does not decay over the years. 
Note: Steps 1 – 7 are independent, and can be performed in any order.

• Step 1: Installing the Feed Water Adapter 
  (The bushing can convert 3/8” comp. to ½” NPT.) 
  1. Turn off the Cold Water Line via the Cold Water Supply Valve (CWSV) under the sink. Open the kitchen faucet to release any pressure and make sure the water has stopped before proceeding to the next step. Get a towel or bucket to catch any water drips. Disconnect the Kitchen Faucet Connector (KFC) pipe from the CWSV.
  2. Check to make sure the O-ring is seated inside the Feed Water Adapter female end, and twist it onto the CWSV. Tighten it using a wrench or pliers.
  3. Twist the KFC onto the male end of the Feed Water Adapter. Turn the handle of the Feed Water Adapter to the perpendicular OFF position. Turn on the CWSV slowly, and ensure you are getting a proper seal.

  4. Connect the 1/4” RED tubing to the Feed Water Adapter.

     

• Step 2: Installing the RO Faucet
  1. If your kitchen sink does not have an existing ½” faucet hole, you will have to drill one. (Refer to How to drill a Hole on Sink or Counter-top). Wipe clean and dry the area.

  2. Slip the front plate on the faucet stem, followed by the rubber washer. Insert the faucet stem into the hole on the countertop. Under the sink, slip on the back rubber washer, and tighten the nut with the plastic wing.

     

  3. Slide the quick connecting up the push-in adapter on the base so that it seats securely into the faucet stem, then lock it in place by sliding the blue clip under the collet.

  4. Insert the BLUE tubing about 1/2 inch into the push-in fitting, and again, secure it with the blue clip.
     Installing the Faucet Bracket (included)
     If your kitchen sink does not have an existing ½’’ faucet hole, you can either drill a hole, or use the enclosed faucet bracket. 
     To use the faucet bracket, mount the bracket to the sidewall of the cabinet, insert the faucet stem into the hole on the bracket, slip on the back rubber washer, and tighten the nut with the plastic wing. 

     

• Step 3: Installing the Drain Saddle 
  1. Choose a spot on the drain pipe that is convenient for installing the drain saddle and tubing. A horizontal pipe is recommended to minimize the dripping sound.
  2. Drill a 1 /4” hole in the drain pipe, and paste the black sticky pad around the hole.
  3. Cut the BLACK tubing end to make a 45 degree angle. Insert the tubing into the 1/4” hole in the drain pipe, install the back plate, and tighten the two screws with hex nuts while the tubing remains in the hole.

  4. Insert Lock Clip. Pull the tubing lightly to make sure it is secure.

     

• Step 4: Installing the Vertical Filters: Stages 1, 2, and 3 
  1. Make sure the O-ring is seated inside the groove on top of the filter housing. A light amount of food- grade silicon jelly may be used to help the O-ring seal better, but is not required.
  2. The filter cartridges are preserved in shrink wrap. Note the direction sign on the sticker before removing the wrap.
  3. When placing the filter cartridge into its housing, make sure it is centered and the knob protruding from the bottom of the housing fits in the central hole of the filter.
  4. Screw the housing, with filters attached, onto the housing caps (caps are pre-assembled on the machine head). The cap also has a center knob which should be inserted into the center hole of the
     filter cartridge. Twist the housing on in a clockwise direction by hand, and then use the housing wrench to tighten it another 1/4 – 1/2 of a turn. Do not over tighten. This can cause leaks and make it difficult to unscrew the housing when replacing filters.

  5. Follow steps 1.1 – 1.4 to install the GAC and CTO filters. 

     

     
     Note* the second stage GAC is the only filter that must go in a certain direction. Make sure the end with the rubber washer faces up, thereby attaching it to the housing cap.

• Step 5: Installing the Tank Shut-Off Valve (TSV)
  1. Wrap 10 - 15 wraps of Teflon tape clockwise (when looking from above) onto the metal thread at the top of the tank.
  2. Screw (clockwise) the Tank Shut-off Valve on and tighten it by hand. Do not over-tighten.
  3. Connect the YELLOW tubing into the Quick-Fitting on the TSV.

• Step 6: Installing the Reverse Osmosis Membrane 

  

  1. First, disconnect the white tube from the quick-fitting connection on the membrane cap. This will allow you to unscrew the membrane housing cap.
  2. All the systems are wet tested without filters prior to shipment, so you may notice some water drops still inside the housing.
  3. Unscrew (counterclockwise) and remove the membrane cap.
  4. Note: Following the flow direction sign on the membrane, cut open the “small end” of the bag, hold the membrane with the bag to avoid touching or contaminating it, and firmly insert it into the housing. This way the end with the two small black O-rings towards the bottom. When it is inserted fully and properly, the “bigger” end of the membrane will be even with the housing opening. See Figure 8-9. After the membrane has been fully inserted you may then disregard the bag.
  5. Before twisting the housing cap back on, make sure the O-ring is seated at the end of the membrane housing as shown in figures 8 and 9. This is very important to avoid leaking and damage to the O-ring. 
  6. Place the membrane housing cap back on and hand tighten it, then use the housing wrench to tighten it another ¼-½” of a turn. Do not over tighten.
  7. DO NOT reconnect the tubing to the fitting on the cap at this point (will be done in system start up). 

• Step 7: Tubing Hook Up (model specific sub-steps are marked with *)

  

  1. See figure Sample Installation and figures of system top view, and note connection points  A- B, C-D, E-F, and G-H.
  2. Facing the front of the system, the 1st stage is the see through housing located on the right hand side. Connect the RED tubing Feed Water Adapter (point A) to the stage 1 elbow fitting (point B).
  3. Connect the Flow Restrictor (point C, 3-inch long cylinder with a FLOW labeled on it) to the Drain Saddle (point D) with the BLACK tubing.
  4. On the right side of the Post Carbon Filter (FT15, 5th stage), connect the T-fitting (point E) and the Tank Valve (point F) with the YELLOW tubing.
  5. At the left end of the stage 5 FT15 filter, insert the BLUE tubing (links to RO faucet) into the elbow fitting.
     • Models with AK/DI: RO water flows out of point G at FT15 and flows into the input (left) side of the next stage. So the BLUE tubing should be connected to the output side of the final stage.
  6. Connect the other end of the BLUE tubing to the RO faucet.
  7. You may neatly organize the tubings, but make sure to leave enough length so the filter system can be moved freely in and out of the cabinet when replacing filters.

  8. You can mount the system using two 10 x 1-1/4 Phillips Flat Wood Screws. This will make replacing filter cartridges easier.

     

     Note: If you plan on mounting/hanging the system, it is highly recommended to include supports under each of the bottom three housings. Supports under the housings will take the water weight off the housing threads, and ensure the thread strength does not decay over the years.

• Step 8: System Start-Up (model-specific sub-steps are marked with a *) 
  1. Make sure no tubings are kinked. Turn the Tank Shut-off Valve OFF (perpendicular to the yellow tube). Place a towel under the system to catch any possible water leaks.
  2. To prevent any residual carbon from the carbon pre filters from getting into the RO membrane, you previously left the tubing to the inlet of the RO membrane housing cap disconnected. Open the Feed Water Adapter Valve and Cold Water Supply Valve (CWSV), and flush the first three stages into a bucket until the water turns clear.
  3. Once the water is clear, shut off the Feed Water Adapter and re-connect the tubing to the RO membrane housing cap. You will want to flush the system like this whenever the first three stages are changed.
  4. Open the RO faucet. Slowly open the Feed Water Adapter back up and check for any leaks.
     The top 3 causes of leaks are:
  5. The tubing is not fully inserted into the quick-connect fitting.
  6. The O-ring is not in the correct place or is kinked.
  7. The Housing/Cap is not tightened properly or misaligned with the threads.
  8. Within 5 minutes, RO water will start slowly trickling from the faucet. Let the faucet trickle for at least 15 minutes to flush out the entire system apart from the tank. The water may appear black due to loose carbon from new carbon filters. It will eventually turn clear apart from many tiny air bubbles leaving the system.
  9. Shut off the RO Drinking Faucet. Turn on the Tank Shut-off Valve. Wait for the tank to fill up completely. It will take 1.5 to 2.5 hours depending on your water temperature (40F-100F, the warmer the faster), water TDS (up to 750, the lower the faster), and incoming water psi (45-70, the higher the faster).
  10. After the tank is full, open the RO Drinking Faucet to drain the tank completely. Do not use the first tank of water. Let it drain into the sink until the stream turns back to a trickle - this means the tank has emptied and you can close the RO faucet to let it begin filling again.
  11. The TDS (total dissolved solids) of the water should be tested periodically to verify that the system is performing properly.
  12. Check for leaks daily for the first two weeks after installation to ensure the system is functioning properly. Install the included Flood Alarm to provide additional peace of mind and protection.

Leak Stop Valve Installation 

The Leak Stop Valve is a reusable mechanical leakage protector. When the pulp detects water leakage, it will expand and shut down the feed water. Before connecting the tubing into the fitting, make sure the end of the tubing is cut square and not damaged or scratched.

Setup Guide

To set up the 123filter iSpringFilter, follow these steps:

1. Turn off the cold-water supply and drain the lines.
2. Mount the filter system under the sink using the provided bracket.
3. Connect the inlet and outlet tubes to the corresponding ports on the system.
4. Install the faucet and connect it to the filtered water outlet.
5. Turn on the cold-water supply and check for leaks.

Refer to the user manual for detailed instructions and diagrams.

I-Spring RO System Maintenance

All iSpring RO systems are designed with ease of use and low maintenance in mind. If the filter cartridges are changed on schedule as suggested, the system will work properly for years to come. See the chart below for the filter pack model numbers for your system. The filter packs can be found on 123filter.com, Amazon, or https://HomeDepot.com 

Note: Stages 6 and/or 7 only exist on certain models. 
Stage 1 – 3 Pre-Filters 
Replace every 6 months or sooner if you notice a decrease in water flow or quality. The replacement frequency depends on your water usage and source water quality. To protect the RO membrane from chlorine and other damaging contaminants, it is important to change the pre-filters according to schedule. 
How to change the stage 1 – 3 pre-filters:

1. Shut off the cold water supply valve and tank valve, and open the RO faucet to depressurize the system. Place a bucket or towel under the system to catch any water spills.
2. If there is enough room under the sink and the filter system is hung on the wall, you can twist the filter housing off without removing the system from the wall. Otherwise, you will need to pull the system out, lay it down, and remove the housings at that point. Be careful with the tubing connections when removing the system.
3. Twist off the filter housings in a counter-clockwise direction using the filter housing wrench.
4. Refer to Installation Step 1.1 to install the new vertical filter cartridges, and tighten the filter housings back on. Remember not to over tighten them or they will be hard to unscrew next time.

Stage 4 RO Membrane 
Replace every 2-3 years or sooner if the TDS level starts increasing. Check the TDS level at least once a month to monitor the system’s performance. The TDS rejection rate should be 90%+.To calculate the rejection rate, divide the RO water TDS into your tap water TDS and subtract from 1. For example, 20 (RO TDS) / 200 (Tap water TDS) = 0.1 1-0.1 = 0.9 so the TDS rejection rate would be 90%. (NSF/ASIN STANDARD 58 for RO water filter).

How to Change the Reverse Osmosis Membrane

1. The RO membrane typically lasts about 2 – 3 years. The membrane life span depends on the source water quality, your water usage, and how often the three pre-filters are replaced. To ensure the system’s performance and water purity, it is important to replace the pre-filter cartridges on schedule. Use a TDS meter to periodically to check the RO water purity.
2. Shut off the cold water supply valve and tank valve, and open the RO faucet to depressurize the system. Place a bucket or towel under the system to catch any water spills.
3. Remove the tubing from the quick-connect fitting on the membrane housing cap. Use the membrane housing wrench to twist off the housing cap in a counter-clockwise direction.
4. Pull out the old membrane. Use scissors or pliers to apply leverage if necessary.
5. Clean the membrane housing using hot water and scent-free dish soap (optional). Rinse thoroughly.
6. Cut open the small end of the vacuum sealed packaging containing the new RO membrane. Hold the new membrane through the packaging, and insert it into the housing without touching the membrane with your bare hands to avoid contamination of the membrane.
7. Make sure the O-ring is properly seated on the end of the membrane housing as shown in the previous images. We recommend replacing the O-ring every 3 years to prevent leaking due to an expired or dried out O-ring.
8. Place the membrane housing cap back on and hand tighten it, then use the housing wrench to tighten it another ¼-½ of a turn. Do not over tighten.

Stage 5 FT15 Inline Post Carbon Filter and Stage 6 Inline Alkaline Filter
Replace the FT15 every 12 months and the Alkaline filter every 6 months

1. Remove all quick-connect tubing connections from the FT15 Post Carbon Filter.
2. Unscrew the fittings from both ends of the old Post Carbon Filter. Wrap the thread of each fitting 2-3 times with Teflon tape, and screw them into their respective sides on the new Post Carbon Filter.
3. Reconnect the quick connect tubing connections to the new Post Carbon Filter.

Tank Maintenance 
It is recommended to fully empty and refill the tank at least once a month. This keeps the water inside the tank fresh and not sitting for an extended period of time. 
What should I do with the system when going out of town? 
When you are leaving for an extended period of time, you will want to shut off the water supply to the system and empty the tank. To do this, close the knob on the feed water adapter, and open the faucet until it stops running. This will signify that the tank is empty. If you are going to be gone for more than a week, you will also want to remove the RO membrane and store it in a damp Ziploc bag in the refrigerator.

Optional Add-Ons

Ice Maker Kit (ICEK) 
The Ice Maker Kit (model#: iSpring ICEK) can be purchased separately to feed RO water to your refrigerator for crystal clear ice cubes and great tasting water. If you choose to hook up the system to your refrigerator output, it can take the place of primary output over the RO faucet.

Troubleshooting Guide for Newly Installed Systems

1. Zero output water from RO faucet
   1. Water supply is closed. Open the water supply to the system so the valve is in line with the red tubing.
   2. Incorrect installation. Verify all tubing connections.
   3. A tubing is crimped, blocking the water flow. Check all tubings and uncrimp any crimped tubings.
2. Tank not filling after several hours
   1. Incoming water pressure is below the minimum required level of 45 PSI. In this scenario, there is not enough water pressure to force the water through the RO membrane. Therefore, the tank does not fill, and the system drains continuously.
   2. Incorrect installation. Verify all tubing connections.
   3. Tank valve is closed. Make sure the tank valve is in line with the yellow tubing.
3. Leaking from where the tubings are inserted into the fittings
   1. The tubing is not pushed in past the O-ring inside the fitting, therefore not creating a seal. Make sure the tubing is pushed in a full 5/8” into the fitting. It will take some extra pressure, but you will feel the tube go fully into the fitting when it does so.
   2. The O-ring inside the fitting is not creating a seal with the tubing. Unscrew the elbow fitting, and replace it with one of the spare elbow fittings. Make sure to wrap the new fitting thread several times with Teflon tape before screwing it in.
4. Leaking from between the membrane cap and membrane housing
   1. If the membrane housing is leaking, make sure the O-ring is seated correctly as shown in sections “Installing the RO Membrane” and “How to Change the RO Membrane”. It should be seated on the end of the membrane housing before the threads begin. The membrane cap is then screwed on over it. When positioned incorrectly, it will create a gap or damage the O- ring. When in the correct place, there will not be any pressure or tension on the O-ring.
5. Low water flow (trickle) at RO faucet 
   1. Tank has not been given the chance to fill. Allow approximately two hours for the tank to fill.
   2. Incoming water pressure is below 45 PSI. If this is the case, the system will need a booster pump or permeate pump to raise the input water pressure going to the membrane. In this scenario the tank would only fill a little or not at all.
6. High TDS in RO water
   1. The system will provide a 90%+ TDS rejection rate when working properly. Meaning if your tap water TDS is 500 ppm, the water from the system should be 50 ppm or lower.
   2. Incorrect installation. Verify all connections on the system.
   3. If the TDS of the tap water and water from the system are about the same, make sure the RO membrane is in fact installed. The semi permeable membrane is blue, comes in sealed packaging, and goes in the stage 4 membrane housing.
   4. If you are getting some reduction in TDS but not 90%+, some water could be bypassing the membrane. This could be due to a faulty automatic shut-off valve, or the membrane itself. Contact iSpring customer support to identify the exact cause.
7. Cloudy water after installation
   1. In the weeks after installing the system or changing the filters, you will see many tiny air bubbles in the RO water. This can cause the water to appear “cloudy”. The bubbles will disappear as the system clears itself of trapped air, and are harmless for the time being.
8. The system drains water 24/7 (continuous drain)
   1. Keep in mind that it will take anywhere from 1-3 hours for the system to fill the tank from empty, and the drain line will be trickling during this time. If the drain line continues to run for 4+ hours, one of the following reasons could be the problem.
   2. Incoming water pressure is below the minimum required level of 45 PSI. In this scenario, the incoming water pressure is not strong enough to fill the storage tank and trigger the system to shut off, and the system will therefore drain continuously. Adding a booster pump or permeate pump to the system will raise the input pressure to a suitable level for the reverse osmosis process.
   3. The Automatic Shut-Off Valve (ASOV) or check valve is defective. To test if one of these valves is the cause of the continuous drain, try the following. 
      1. Fill several glasses of water from the RO unit to ensure the drain water is flowing.
      2. Close the blue valve on top of the tank.
      3. Wait approximately five minutes, then remove the drain tube to check if it is still flowing or not. If it is not flowing, the ASOV and check valve are in good working condition.
      4. If it is still flowing, this means either the ASOV or check valve are faulty. Open everything on the system back up and allow the tank to fill if it is not already. Tilt the tank to check the weight and ensure that it is filled at least partially. Then close the feed water adapter, cutting off the water supply to the system. With the tank valve open, leave the system for 15-30 minutes, and check the weight of the tank when you return. If it has emptied, the check valve is the source of the continuous drain.
9. Leak from tank valve connection
   1. Make sure you have applied Teflon tape to the tank threads before screwing on the tank valve. There should be at least 8-10 wraps of Teflon tape to ensure a proper seal. If you have done this and it continues to leak, contact iSpring customer support for an immediate replacement.
10. Water from the system tastes the same as tap water
    1. Incorrect installation. Verify all connections on the system.
    2. The RO membrane is not installed in the membrane housing. Ensure that the membrane has been installed.

Troubleshooting

Common issues with the 123filter spring filter include leaks, low water pressure, and filter clogging:

• Leaks: Check all connections for tightness and ensure all fittings are securely attached.
• Low Water Pressure: Check the water supply line for kinks or blockages. Also, ensure that the filters are not clogged.
• Filter Clogging: Replace filters as recommended by the manufacturer to maintain optimal performance.

Always refer to the user manual for specific troubleshooting steps and safety precautions.

123filter iSpringFilter Osmosis Water Filtration Warranty

This Limited Warranty extends to the original purchaser of the system only. This warranty covers all Manufacturer- supplied items only that prove to be defective in material, workmanship, or factory preparation. This warranty covers parts only; all labor is excluded from this warranty, including, but not limited to, services related to the removal, replacement, installation, adjustment, maintenance, and/or repair of the unit or its components items. excludes all non- Manufacturer labor required for any servicing of the unit, including, but not limited to, servicing related to installation, adjustment, maintenance, and repair of the unit. This warranty applies only for the first full calendar year from date of purchase. The following items are excluded from this warranty: membranes, filters, O-rings, and all other parts or components that require regular replacement as a result of ordinary usage.

ATTENTION! 

Please pay attention to the following installation and safety recommendations:

• Installation and use MUST comply with all state and local plumbing codes.
• Read the Installation Manual before installing this system.
• Install the system at a location with adequate drainage.
• This water system unit is for INDOOR use ONLY. Do not install on hot-water supply lines, and protect against sudden temperature changes.
• Make sure ALL filter housings are tightened securely by using the housing wrench provided.
• Wait and inspect the system AFTER the water is pressurized.
• Inspect ALL connections after the installation to make sure NO LEAKS occur.
• A pressure regulator is required if incoming water pressure is over 80 psi.
• Strongly recommended: SHUT OFF the water supply when homeowner/user will not be using the water system for longer than a week.
• Replace the filter cartridges regularly based on your water quality and usage.

WARNING 
DO NOT install the system where the water is microbiologically unsafe or of unknown quality without adequate disinfection before or after the system.

Pros & Cons

Pros:

• Effective Filtration: Removes a wide range of contaminants for clean drinking water.
• Easy Installation: Designed for DIY installation with clear instructions.
• Low Maintenance: Filters are easy to replace, reducing ongoing costs.
• Compact Design: Fits under most kitchen sinks without taking up too much space.

Cons:

• Higher Cost: More expensive than basic water filtration systems.
• Waste Water Generation: Produces wastewater during the filtration process.
• Filter Replacement Costs: While filters are easy to replace, they can be costly over time.

Customer Reviews

Customers have praised the 123filter iSpringFilter for its effectiveness in removing impurities and improving the taste of their drinking water. Many have noted that the installation process was straightforward, and the system's performance has been consistent. However, some users have mentioned that the initial cost and ongoing filter replacement costs are higher than expected.

A common complaint is the generation of wastewater during the filtration process, which some find wasteful. Despite this, most reviewers agree that the benefits of clean drinking water outweigh these minor drawbacks.